|
June 18th, 2000
Hello from Lesotho. It's a cold and drippy Saturday here at our Farmer's Training Center high in the Drakensberg mountains. We can't quibble, though, it's been three weeks of sunshine and pleasant days. Nothing at all in the rain gauge while we've been away doing Peace Corps planning for the next group of trainees corning July 9th. Sandwiched between the planning and our mid-tour medical exams, Lynn and I had one of those vacations that make even the most arduous Peace Corps moments worthwhile...
We visited the exquisite parks of northern Kwa-Zulu Natal in South Africa, drifting up the Indian Ocean coastline toward Mozambique. This is terrain where the sub tropics and the tropics blend. The plant communities explode here and there's a wonderful wealth of birds and animals, all in their natural settings. The parks are managed better than our U.S. national parks (we know, we always buy a Golden Eagle parks passport at home) with absolutely no litter, billboards, or gateway towns like West Yellowstone or Cherokee to clutter the experience. Our access to big game was continuing and close-up. I shot film with a 135mm lens and have impala to elephants and white rhino filling every frame and this without ever leaving the prescribed gravel roads. Thrilling. The parks we visited in the St. Lucia wetlands complex and Hluhlewe/Umfolozi were uncrowded; we often traveled an hour on game drives without seeing another visitor.
There are busy times of the year in the parks, but visitation is down the last two years and with the strong dollar, we felt our travels on; this trip were some of the best values we've had in thirty years of exploring remote parts of the planet (Tibet, Burma, Peru, west Africa, etc.) We felt safe traveling despite media images readers might have gleaned from the press. And we enjoyed every day. A special moment? How about hiking up the beautiful wilderness coastline at Cape Vidal. Sand dunes vault up from the ocean to meet tropical rainforest. Tired of trying to decipher antelope tracks in the sand? Then run down the dunes and plunge into the water, the waves perfect for body surfing. And... there's nobody else in sight.
I'd like to finish my letter this month by reflecting on some of my fellow volunteers in Lesotho. Some readers may know that this is a third Peace Corps go-around for me and a second stint for my wife, Lynn (Burkina Faso '68-'71, Philippines '87-'89). One of the most magnetic reasons I'm drawn to this experience is the transformation of Americans who volunteer overseas. Nobody escapes unchanged! In Maseru, ten or so of us spent the night at the Danish guest house, a modest , but welcome affair. Yesterday's strangers now are friends. We laughed and shared our adventures (and misadventures!). Some of our group have already fallen by the wayside and returned to the States for their own good reasons.. But those Volunteers who now have a year under their belts are so impressive to me. They've fought the battles that change agents fight all over the developing world. They've been bored. They've waited for taxis that never came.
But in persevering, they've become sturdy in mind and body, in ways that do not happen in America. Many already have terrific successes in their work and new career goals We are all understanding anew or again the Peace Corps mantra - high risk, high gain Cheers to everyone.
Eric Thomson
Qacha's Nek, Lesotho
P.S. Lynn and I bought a high end version of Encarta (world atlas) only to discover that our ancient computer only has a port for floppies Ugh! We would like to expose our new class of students coming in October to computer literacy and a world they've never seen If someone can contribute $1200 (feel the pain!) we can buy a complete setup with color printer in South Africa no sweat. We'll happily pay the customs duties. Write us at PVC Box 9 Qacha's Nek, Lesotho. Fund raising is a fact of life for volunteers in the field these days. I'd be happy to help link up any individuals with current volunteers (perhaps donors could mention a dollar figure they're comfortable with: any amount helps!). Peace Corps/ Lesotho is OK with this back-channel funding mechanism. Most Vols seem to have a Visa card and could accept US dollar checks sent here, then deposit in their US accounts and pay for project materials with the card or cash machine malutis/rands.
Donors will, of course receive a letter of thanks / photos (?) and with clear consciences will sleep better at night!
|