Friends of Lesotho Letters |
Editorial note: This letter is a little different. Some time back I wrote to Eric telling him of a visit I had from new PCVs about to go to Lesotho. I explained to him that I had some doubts about what I'd told them simply because my own PCV service was 20 years ago, and things change. Sure the culture and climate would be the same - but could you still get Oreos at Spar? Is there still a Spar? This is his response:
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December 14, 2000 Dear Bill,
Got your letter. Thanks for taking the time to keep snail mail alive! I hope most of your questions are answered in this month's Lesotho letter. RSA really does have everything these days, particularly now that the sanctions have been lifted. There are even the European equivalents of Sam's Club and Price Club with brand name consumer goods stacked to the ceiling ( Bloomfontein, Pietermaritzberg, etc.). Ladybrand now has two first-rate supermarkets, including a Spar, the Dutch owned company that is the worlds leader. They stock Old El Paso shell tacos, sauces, etc., imported either from the States or Australia. You get the drift.
We spoke to the new trainees at Roma a few weeks back and had a chance to meet your new Anchorage acquaintances on the other end of their long plane ride. They look like good PCV material and we enjoyed talking to them. BUT, the big surprise was the round of applause we received after our brief remarks. It turns out that almost all the trainees had visited your website and felt they knew us! Several came up afterwards and thanked us, saying it was the best info they could find on Lesotho. Hurray! These are the folks we're trying to reach, since we couldn't get the 'feel' of Lesotho anywhere when we were accepted.
On this same theme, yesterday a German walked into our farm office and was waving a printout of the "Letter from Lesotho" - with photos from the site. He said he and his wife had read all the letters and really enjoyed the approach. This sort of left my head shinning because I think, like you, we haven't appreciated the potential of what the Friends of Lesotho site is doing. Last month an American couple drove from Sani Pass to the farm here to meet us (we were in Maseru) after seeing the site and left a lovely note. We also know Volunteer families visit the site regularly.
Quite honestly, I've been sending you the photos assuming you personally might find them interesting. It never occurred to me you might be posting them on the website. Great idea. I'll try and keep sending them. Are the color copier copies Ok quality (also now available in Maseru and RSA)?
Finally, thanks again so much for doing a terrific job on the Alaska end of this transaction. I wonder if other Peace Corps countries are doing this? You might call the Lesotho desk (1-800-424-8580 - remember this number from being a PC recruitment manager twenty five years ago!) and nudge them sometime. Thanks again.
Best regards, Eric
P.S. Peace Corps funded a beautiful computer, printer, et. al. for Lynn's teaching. I'll send a photo by and by.
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December 14, 2000 Hello from Lesotho!We are receiving above average rainfall again this year. Last week we were getting drenched for several days in a row, then high pressure and glorious sunshine for three or four days. This week's a repeat. Happily, I'm tapping away on our farm office computer after a perfect mountain summer day. The Drackensberg mountain resorts in South Africa refer to this weather as "champagne air". A little chilly in the mornings and evenings, 75 degrees midday, and then put on a wool blanket or two at night - great sleeps assured, even with the roosters to remind you you're in Africa.
The Peace Corps trains two cycles of new Volunteers each year in Lesotho. Current trainees will swear in and move to their sites in early January. The next group will arrive in early May, if I'm not mistaken. Lynn and I have been compiling lists of what to bring (and what not to bring) to supplement the lists supplied by Peace Corps Washington. This week I got a nice letter from Bill Dunn in Anchorage, our webmaster for the Friends of Lesotho website, asking for more info along these same lines. There's nothing definitive about this list. Just remember there are only two kinds of travelers: those who travel light and those who wish they had . . .
Basically, because South Africa surrounds our beautiful mountain kingdom, we can get anything. Here am a few of life's necessities, and pleasures we get no sweat:
- great filter coffee; also the hand plunger coffee makers are readily available in S.A.
- all types of batteries, including AA are here.
- Kodak, Fuji and Agfa film AND pretty good developing is available in Maseru; and towns Volunteers frequent in RSA. Film is cheaper in the US so bring a good supply and restock here as you need to. Print and slide film are available as are camera batteries. I shoot 200 ASA with some 400 ASA in wildlife parks when dawn/dusk light is iffy.
- Great milk and dark chocolate (with almonds) is made in South Africa. Cheap! I didn't know this, so brought a pound of M&M's to get us through training.
- ATM cash machines are in Maseru and all over RSA. If possible bring your VIS/MC to use if you need supplemental cash for vacations or splurges. This is a big help; you don't need to carry wads of cash.
- Teva knock-offs, hiking boots and running shoes are all readily available at OK prices. Quality will depend on what you spend, but good footwear is no problem. Note: I run and have really enjoyed the trailrunners I bought. Good, sturdy soles and perfect for daily wear in many circumstances.
- Food. At rural sites variety is restricted, but Lynn and I (and many Vols) make regular forays into South Africa where they have Supermarkets! Some of these are easily equal to what you experience in the States: blueberry jam, semolina pasta, ice cream, excellent cheap wine (like $1.25), filet mignon for the price of hamburger at home, great fruit yogurt, cashews, raisins, cheap and delicious fruits and veggies. We are currently wading through the mango season; the jumbo pounders arrive in January (30 cents) and eat like cantaloupe, which we are currently enjoying. These occasional treats are incredibly meaningful when you're a PCV!
Here's a quick "to bring" list:
- Lots of photos Friends, family, pets (how weird are you?), favorite vacation spots, typical American towns and cities, campus life, forests (we don't have 'em), scenery, farm animals, horses, etc. We brought lots of photos of the Utah canyon lands, which we love, and we look at these pictures all the time. It's comforting. Also people you get to know will really enjoy seeing how your life in America looks. Hot tip: bring lots of National Park type calendars available at places like Wal-Mart. They make great gifts and sell for around $3 at discount stores. I wish I'd brought a Rand-McNally road atlas to help plan that "victory lap" when our Peace Corps tour is finished!
- Bring a good shortwave radio with FM and cassette deck (CD's and cassettes are for sale everywhere, but aren't particularly cheap. Too bad, since you'll get sick of the ones you bring and have to buy more.) We always listen to the shortwave BBC and SAFM (both first- rate). That's right, you can listen to classical music and Mississippi Delta blues, etc. on South Africa's public radio. As I write this our students are in the next room practicing fabulous Basotho traditional songs in multi-part harmonies. It's thrilling.
- Swiss Army knife and, possibly, binocs. Bird watching is a passion for us and South Africa is out of this world: great raptors, cranes, storks, louries, everything, including owl eagles.
- Lynn adds these: cheap altimeter (we run at 6200') and map of Africa. The later you can stare at for hundreds of hours in disbelief that you live in such a remote corner of the world!!
- We brought International Driver's licenses, but current US licenses work fine if you find yourself behind the wheel on vacation, etc. Peace Corps issues photo ID's.
- Bring your e-mail address book. We don't have internet access yet at our site (few Vols do), but the Peace Corps office has internet access for Volunteers and somehow, almost everywhere we go in South Africa, we find a way to check our e-mail. Do not expect to have regular access to the internet, though. Some Volunteers, we notice, seem to assume this goes with the job these days. It doesn't. Not here, not yet. Living largely without TV, phones and computers is a good reality check for us Americans. Don't worry, you won't miss the celebrity tabloids much, either! ("Say, what about that new Ron Popeil chicken bar-be-que AND rotisserie??")
Webmaster Dunn reports that 1000 to 1500 people a month from the US, Europe and South Africa are reading these pale missives each month. I can't tell you what fun it is to share this special time in our lives. As we approach our Summer solstice here, Happy New Millennium!
All best wishes, Eric Thomson Qacha's Nek,Lesotho
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Eric: Are we still living in a world of the only pepper being white, and the only cheese being Gouda?
I'd also suggest bringing raingear and camping gear. Water purification stuff is needed only while camping, and even then it's not usually critical, just use common sense. Stoves should use kerosene. Audio cassettes of your local radio station are interesting and good barter items (don't cut the ads or traffic reports, you'll love the reminders of where you are). Many items can also be acquired from departing Volunteers. Be sure to see the film The Gods Must be Crazy.
| Peace Corps who return from Asia come back religious. Peace Corps who return from South America come back revolutionaries. Peace Corps who return from Africa come back laughing. |
We rode horses at Semonkong five hours to see some of the rare spiral aloe left in the wild. | Lynn with 73 year old PCV from her hometown of Billings, MT.
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Towards the falls at Semonkong.

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